On the approach to the village of Alquézar, one is not prepared for the wonderful sight that suddenly appears before one, houses perched on a steep escarpment and the church beyond built on an imposing promontory.

Meandering through the small streets takes one back to a bygone age. What makes the village even more interesting to visit is a breathtaking walk from the village, down into the gorge of the River Vero. One walks along a small path pegged to the rock face, then down to the turquoise- coloured waters of the river, before returning to the village through the terraced olive groves.

A short drive from Alquézar takes one to the small hamlet of Buera where there is a quirky hotel, Posada Lalola. Quite a wonderful place to stay in and best of all is its restaurant. An ex-footballer from Español created Lalola after retiring from the game. Now run by his son, the very small and cozy restaurant offers an outstanding selection of local food and wines (DO Somontano).

On leaving Buera, not far from the hamlet, is a hidden treasure. A medieval bridge spanning the River Vera. The hard to locate Puente de L’Albarda is not even signposted and situated just off the turning onto the A2205. Built in the thirteenth century it is a very impressive structure.

Continuing along the same road, one crosses over and passes by vast canyons, and it is worth stopping and contemplate the views. Take some binoculars because from the several vantage points on the road, if fortunate, one can spot the rare and magnificent Bearded Vulture. And of course, marvel at the other vultures as well as Golden and Imperial Eagles that can also be seen if one is patient!

Rura del Silencio

Ainsa

Historic Oaks & Medieval Villages

About 20 km from the medieval Puente is a turning off to the village of Lecina. There you can find a majestic Holm Oak (Quercus Ilux), which was named the European Tree of the Year in 2022. It was saved by the local farmer from being cut down and protected by him for decades. Lecina is a quiet hamlet with interesting buildings, and if one explores further up the road, one comes across fields of ancient olive trees, some probably over 1.500 years old.

Just 35 km from Lecina is the medieval village of Ainsa, which is worth a visit and in particular the Church of Santa Maria, built in the eleventh century. Then treat oneself to a Michelin star meal at the Callizo restaurant, that specializes in local “mountain” cuisine and has spectacular views onto the Pyrenees.

Then a short drive to Roda de Isabena. This fortified village has one of the most stunning views in Spain… across low fertile plains to mountains, and beyond to the peaks of the Pyrenees. Remarkably, this tiny village of just 46 inhabitants has a cathedral, dating back to 956 and is the smallest one to be found in Spain.

An extraordinary church, with unique treasures and a cloister. Apart from the impressive medieval murals, there is a small chair which was probably Viking, and one wonders how it ever came into possession of the then bishop. Tragically, the church was robbed in 1979 by a notorious criminal called Erik “El Belga”, a Belgium art thief who amongst other treasures took the Viking stool and broke it up, hoping to sell the beautifully carved heads as single pieces. Fortunately it was recovered, pieced together and is now exhibited in the Cathedral. As for Erik, he was captured and struck a deal with the Spanish authorities. On returning over 1.500 stolen art pieces, the fourteen charges were dropped, and he retired to the Spanish costa!

One can stay at the Hospederia de la Abadia, a truly authentic experience, and best of all, the meals are in the original refectory of the Cathedral, alongside the cloister.

To Teruel, via Gandesa

Before driving to Teruel, the southern province of Aragon, a stopover on route is recommend, especially if you are interested in the Spanish Civil War. In the town of Gandesa, just over the border in Cataluña, there is a Civil War museum given that close by was one of the major battles of the war, The Battle of the Ebro. There are few museums in Spain featuring the Civil War as it still casts a dark shadow over the country. Close by are trenches and bunkers, which can be visited.

At the nearby Venta San Juan close to the village of Batea and right on the border between Aragon and Cataluña, a very different experience awaits one. Here, in the middle of the vineyards, is an old, gentrified house dating back to the nineteenth century. Practically untouched and where accommodation is offered by the owners, basic facilities with few frills but certainly worth the experience. In particular are the dinners. Excellent home cooking and either served inside, in a vast dining room full of treasures next to the ancient kitchen, or in the walled garden, under a vine.

It was here, early in April 1938, during the Battle of the Ebro, that the Lincoln-Washington Battalion of the International Brigade spent the night before retreating from the rapidly advancing Nationalist forces. It became a rout, and many were executed as they fled, while others who reached the River Ebro attempted to swim across it. An estimated 183 Brigadiers died and probably all of them
had spent the night at the Venta. There is a local rumour that much of their equipment and armaments were dumped in a well close to the house but has never been located.

Onwards to the Province of Teruel, to the comarca of Matarraña, where three villages of the association can be visited: Calaceite, Valderrobres and La Fresneda. This area is known as the “Tuscany” of Spain. The rolling countryside, the distant mountains, the odd Cyprus trees, and the fortified villages reminds one of Italy.

There are two wonderful places to stay at. A large finca with exceptional views called Mas de la Costa is a luxury stop over. Or try Torre del Marquez, a winery with a spa in the middle of wild countryside.

Of the three beautiful villages, perhaps Valderrobres is the most imposing. One enters the medieval town across a stone bridge and then meander up the small streets to the wonderfully preserved castle. The Gothic church of Santa María la Mayor is imposing with a wonderful sixteenth century altarpiece, burnt during the civil war and recently reconstructed from the remains. Before leaving, visit the municipal building, a jewel of Aragon renaissance architecture.

  Valderrobres

Albarracín

On the road to Albarracin

Finally, I would recommend ending the journey through Aragon at the remarkable village of Albarracin, built on the entrance to the gorge of the river Guadalaviar. It retains all of its original essence having been preserved from the destruction of modern development. What makes the visit so interesting is the Cathedral of San Salvador dating back to the sixteenth century and has splendid altarpieces and an ecclesiastic museum full of treasures given that the village was the seat of the local bishopric.

However I would highly recommend a small detour on the road to Albarracin. On this section of the route one passes by, or close to, another four villages belonging to the Association: Mirambel, Cantavieja, Puertomingalvo and Rubielos de Mora. All worth a stopover if time permits.

But what makes this leg of the journey so interesting is a small road, just beyond the village of Cantaviejo, the A-1072, that follows the river Cañada down a spectacular gorge. Known as “La Ruta del Silencio”, the 63 km road is simply stunning. Stop at the recommended points, listen to the “silence” and observe the beauty of the Sierra Majalinos. Definitely a slow journey, given the number of curves and narrow width of the road.

Apart from visiting the villages on this route through Aragon, the journeys between them and in particular “La Ruta del Silencio”, enables one to better understand the vast expanse of rural Spain and its wild natural essence.

After Albarracin, the coast of Valencia is just two hours distant. One descends down to the coast from the Sierra Calderona, back to the hustle and bustle of the two pillars of Spanish tourism, “sol y playa”, knowing that behind the Sierra lies an extraordinary and virtually undiscovered land.

With overtourism hitting the headlines, will Spain divert some of the crowds away from the coast towards the treasures of the interior? Or perhaps in order to preserve the “wildness” and uniqueness of the interior, a coherent and efficient plan should be developed so that its beauty can be enjoyed but in such a way that is not as destructive as what has happened with so much of the coastline.

Note on the author:

Carlos Oppe is an Anglo-Spaniard living in Segovia. He is a member of the Association Los Pueblos Más Bonitos de España and a consultant on ecological policy. carlos@lospueblosmasbonitosdeespana.org